Tips for Growing Lavender

What Is Lavender?

Lavender is a perennial plant that can live 10–15 years or more in a home garden when grown correctly. Longevity is directly influenced by soil preparation, drainage, pruning practices, winter protection, and proper harvesting. When these elements are balanced, lavender can thrive for decades and even form a long-lasting hedge.

Lavender performs best in well-drained, loamy soil. An ideal soil mix includes sand, clay soil (common in south-central Ohio), and organic matter such as composted horse manure or aged material from old woodlots. During planting, incorporate two handfuls of limestone (or a small amount of dolomitic lime if using rock instead of limestone) along with a balanced nitrogen starter fertilizer.

Container-grown lavender typically does not require weed protection. For in-ground plantings, weed suppression is highly recommended. Options include polypropylene or natural woven weed barrier fabric, oyster shell mulch, or wood chips. At Peaceful Acres, we successfully introduced wood-chip mulched beds into commercial lavender production—mirroring traditional home-garden techniques while significantly reducing weed pressure.

Young lavender plants require a light nitrogen boost during their first two growing seasons. After establishment, lavender thrives with minimal input—only a small annual application of lime to maintain a soil pH between 6.9 and 7.5. Natural mulches that slowly decompose, such as wood chips, also reduce the need for frequent fertilization.

One of the biggest challenges in the Midwest is selecting a cold-hardy Angustifolia variety that tolerates wet winters. The most reliable and hardy options are Munstead and English lavender, both of which offer elegant fragrance and visual appeal nearly year-round—even during rainy conditions.

When to Plant Lavender

Peaceful Acres has tested lavender planting across multiple seasons, including May through September. While spring planting consistently produces the strongest and most resilient plants, lavender planted later in the season can still survive when properly cared for.

The primary drawback of late-season planting is reduced plant size, yield, and second-year growth. Smaller fall plantings are more prone to soil washout around the plant base, which can expose or lift the root system and compromise winter survival.

Winter Protection for Lavender

Winter protection is critical—especially for lavender grown for oil production. Severe ice storms can damage or kill any lavender variety, including cold-hardy Angustifolia types.

At Peaceful Acres, varieties such as Grosso and Twinkle Purple benefit from temporary winter protection during ice events. A breathable sheet or cover placed over the plant during ice storms can prevent severe damage.

Ice is far more destructive than snow. While snow can insulate lavender plants if it falls on unfrozen ground, ice accumulation coats stems and leaves, freezing the essential oils within the plant and causing branch dieback. Prolonged snow cover can also cause what growers refer to as “snow-pack burn”, where extended freezing conditions damage plant tissue due to excessive weight and lack of airflow.

Ice buildup is the greatest winter threat—once branches are encased in ice for multiple days, tissue damage is almost unavoidable.

Pruning Lavender for Best Results in the Midwest

Through years of trial, observation, and hands-on experience, Peaceful Acres has developed a reliable pruning system tailored to Midwest growing conditions. Proper pruning improves airflow, prevents woody growth, and maximizes both plant health and harvest yield.

First-Year Pruning

During the first growing season,
all flower buds should be removed as soon as they appear. This keeps the plant in a vegetative growth cycle, allowing it to establish a strong root system and structure before winter. Allowing lavender to flower during its first year significantly reduces plant size, weakens winter survival, and lowers second- and third-year yields.

When Is the Best Time to Prune Lavender?

Lavender is best pruned during harvest, which eliminates unnecessary follow-up trimming and prevents loss of usable buds.

Early spring (March–May) is the ideal time for structural pruning. Remove all dead branches down to the base of the hedge. After harsh winters, plants may require aggressive pruning back to woody growth. If leaves crumble easily or fall off when touched, the branch is dead and should be removed.

In extreme cases, Peaceful Acres prunes plants back to bare woody hedges and applies a light nitrogen feeding. All new buds are removed temporarily so the plant can redirect energy into rapid regrowth. This method has successfully regenerated plants that initially appeared dead.

Post-Harvest & Maintenance Pruning

After the main harvest, sporadic flower shoots may continue to form. These stems should be pruned individually as they appear. Tall stems that have already flowered should be cut back below the first set of leaves, before the flower stalk begins.

Deep or aggressive pruning should only be performed in early spring—not during late summer or fall.

How to Prune Lavender Plants

Proper pruning technique is essential for long-term plant health. Always prune two leaf sets above the woody growth. Cutting into woody stems increases the risk of rot and plant stress, while leaving two leaf sets encourages dense, stable growth and a fuller hedge.

Recovering from Winter Damage

When lavender experiences winter dieback, a more aggressive pruning approach is required. All dead woody branches should be cut back to the top of the root hedge. Although plants may appear lifeless initially—even into early summer—patience is key.

With proper pruning and a modest nitrogen application, Peaceful Acres has seen lavender regenerate within two months, producing harvestable bundles by late summer. This approach reduced crop loss from nearly 90% to just 20%, even after severe winter damage.